Antique Pocket
Watches
Today’s watches - worn on the wrist - are increasingly
high-tech, providing not only the time and date, but also GPS navigation,
fitness tracking, and internet access. However, for most of history, people
carried simple watches in their pockets in order to tell time. Also called
“pocket clocks” pocket watches were used until WWI when the wrist watch was
developed.
During the month of March, Rosenberg Library will exhibit
an assortment of antique
pocket watches from its museum collection.
Pocket Clocks
By the late 1400s, small, spring-driven clocks were being
manufactured in Italy and Germany. The earliest European watches only had an
hour hand; the minute hand did not appear until the late 1600s. Typically, the
watch face was covered by a hinged brass plate rather than with glass. These
watches were often worn on a chain around a neck, and only later were watches
carried in a pocket. Pocket watches were usually attached to a chain to prevent
them from being dropped or broken.
Pocket Watch
Styles
There are three main types of pocket watches: open-face,
hunter, and demi-hunter. An open-face watch lacks a protective cover over the
crystal but is covered by a thick piece of glass. Conversely, hunter watches
have a thin glass face but are protected by a metal cover which opens with a
springed hinge. This keeps the watch from getting dirty or scratched. A
demi-hunter also has a springed hinge cover, but it features a glass panel on
the outer cover so that the time can be read without opening it. Cases for pocket
watches were most often made from metal, though less durable ceramic and glass
cases were also manufactured.
American Watch
Makers
Although early Americans owned watches imported from
Europe, pocket watches were not manufactured in America until the 1830s. Even
then, American-made watches were only produced on a small scale and many people
could not afford to purchase them. However, by the mid-1850s, innovative
American companies (including Elgin, Waltham, and Hamilton) had developed
machine-made, interchangeable watch parts and had begun to utilize
assembly-line production. This enabled American watch makers to offer
mass-produced watches at a low price to consumers.
In 1896, the mail order firm of R.H. Ingersoll and Bros.
began selling wholesale watches for $1 apiece. Dubbed “The Watch that Made the
Dollar Famous” Ingersoll’s dollar watches became wildly popular and within 20
years, 40 million units had been sold. Despite this initial success, Ingersoll
and Bros. declared bankruptcy in 1921 during the post WWI recession.
For higher-end consumers, the iconic American jewelry
firm Tiffany and Co. also produced pocket watches. Tiffany partnered with Patek
Phillipe, a prestigious Swiss watchmaking firm which produced a line of luxury,
handcrafted watches for the Tiffany brand in its Geneva factory.
The Emergence of
the Wristwatch
During WWI, the trench watch was developed. This was a
transitional design combining elements of both the pocket watch and the wrist
watch. Military personnel found it more convenient to wear a watch on the wrist
than to carry it in a pocket. This trend spread to the general public, and by
the 1940s, wrist watches had become the much preferred timekeeping accessory.